From the Domesday book to the present day, step back in time and take a look through the history of Fleetwood...
History of Fleetwood – as far back as the Domesday Book
The land on which Fleetwood stands belonged to the Hundred of Amounderness. You’ll find it in William the Conqueror’s Domesday Book of 1086.
Three pages of Latin abbreviations and strange, yet recognisable spellings, tell that the region was sparsely populated, laid waste and the property of Baron Roger de Poictou. It was his share in the spoils, as one of William’s mercenaries at the Battle of Hastings. When he’s banished, Amounderness then belongs to Theobald Walter. He was another Norman and founder of Cockersand Abbey, across the river from Fleetwood.
Over the centuries, the land passed to the Crown. Henry VIII later sold it, during the dissolution of the monasteries.
History of Fleetwood – the Rossall Estate
Edmund Fleetwood was the first of the name to reside as Lord of the Manor at Rossall Hall.
His descendant, Peter Hesketh, was to later put Fleetwood on the map. Interestingly, it was another descendant, General George Fleetwood, who with others, signed the death warrant of King Charles I.
In the 1830s Peter Hesketh’s Rossall estate was a desolate tract, home to thousands of rabbits and sea birds. Marram-grass lined sand dunes, leading to The Mount of today, eventually disappeared because the sea continually encroached. In 1833, extensive flooding drowned cattle and horses, and damaged outbuildings at Rossall Hall.
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Fleetwood wasn’t even on the map at this point. Fishermen and trawlers were unknown at the mouth of the River Wyre. At the time sea trade used the port at Skippool for their sailings to the Americas. Nearby Poulton was the main market town of the area.
Making a Mark on History
Peter Hesketh was Lord of the Manor, High Sheriff of the County of Lancashire and MP for Preston. He had ideas about making his mark on the history of Fleetwood.
Once Peter was knighted he petitioned Queen Victoria to add ‘Fleetwood’ – his mother’s maiden name – to his own name. It became a name we’re all familiar with – Sir Peter Hesketh Fleetwood. See his statue in Euston Gardens, off The Esplanade.
Sir Peter had good reason for believing the site held the makings of a busy seaport and popular resort. It had a river mouth and a natural sheltered harbour. In fact the expression “safe as Wyre Water” passed into folklore. There were golden sands, sea, air like wine and breathtaking views across Morecambe Bay. All that was missing was a railway from busy Preston.
The beginning of Fleetwood
Peter Hesketh hired the eminent architect of the time, Decimus Burton. Work on the railway and the first buildings commenced in 1836.
Look at this amazing map for the planned town, sent to us by Elaine Waumsley.
A single line railway from Preston opened on 15th July, 1840, following the formation of the Preston and Wyre Railway, Harbour and Dock Company. Along with the construction of houses, hotels and a wharf.
Fleetwood is a planned town, unlike others that grew haphazardly during the Industrial Revolution. Burton’s plan was to use largest of the sand-dunes on the north-facing shore as the focus of a half-wheel street layout.
The big, seafront sand dune was landscaped, becoming known as The Mount. Originally called Starr Hill and the highest in the chain of dunes, it became a focal point, with a summer house placed on top. From there, Esau Carter Monk, one of the first town commissioners, dispensed refreshments.
The Mount is the hub of Burton’s half-wheel design. The main residential streets the spokes, and the main commerce area of Dock Street is the rim of the wheel. In this 1890 map you can see how much the town has grown.
Historic Buildings in Fleetwood
The oldest surviving Fleetwood building dates from 1838. It’s now Fleetwood Museum (below) but was once the Custom House, then the Town Hall.
There’s more about the Museum today at this link. Houses from as early as 1839 still also stand in the town.
The North Euston Hotel is another old building, built in 1841. It’s a semi-circular building overlooking the bay and the River Wyre estuary. It played an important role in the history of Fleetwood.
The North Euston, built to serve overnight guests making the railway journey from Euston Station in London, was close to the departure point for steamers to Scotland.
At the time, there was no direct rail route from London to Scotland along the west coast. Travellers would arrive at Fleetwood and take the sea ferry to Ardrossan, then travel by rail to Glasgow.
The construction of the railway over Shap Fell in the Lake District in 1847 ended this sea/rail link. In doing so it made Fleetwood’s role as a transport terminus obsolete.
Lighthouses of Fleetwood
Burton designed two lighthouses for the town. The Pharos or Upper Lighthouse is the tall one.
The Lower Lighthouse is at The Esplanade (below), also known as Beach Lighthouse. Both of these opened in 1840.
Alexander Mitchell built the third lighthouse, the Wyre Light, in 1839-40. You can just still see it, offshore on the northeast corner of North Wharf. Together, the three lighthouses safely guided ships through the Wyre channel and into port.
Here’s another old map, also sent in by Elaine Waumsley. See the extent of the sand banks, and how dangerous it must have been navigating to harbour.
History of Fleetwood as a Seaside Resort
The new town grew with houses, shops, churches, schools and boarding houses. Visitors crowded in for sea-bathing, scenery, sands and dancing in the Mount hollow.
Trips for workers’ regattas were planned. Wealthy visitors stayed on Upper Queen’s Terrace for three weeks to three months. Breakfast at the North Euston was two shillings, a bedroom four shillings a day.
Fleetwood Market first opened in 1840 and is still in operation today.
During Whitsuntide Week of 1844 thousands of trippers travelled to Fleetwood on the half fares offered by the railway company. In 1846 the largest Sunday School trip was a train of 56 carriages, pulled by two engines, carrying 4,200 people.
The Fate of Peter Hesketh Fleetwood
These were boom years in the history of Fleetwood. However, a later branch railway line to Blackpool saw the growth of the neighbouring resort, and falling visitor numbers in Fleetwood. The site of Blackpool Central Station is set to be redeveloped once again.
Peter’s unscrupulous agent, Frederick Kemp also contributed to his failing fortune, although he was never a declared bankrupt. Bankruptcy was to be the fate of Sir Peter’s only surviving child, Louis.
Peter had spent so much of his large fortune that he had to lease out and later sell Rossall Hall. The sale of goods lasted a fortnight. He then went abroad and later settled in Brighton.
History of Fleetwoods Fishing Industry
Improvement Acts were later passed for paving, lighting and street cleansing. Isle of Man sailings were extended, steamers travelled to Londonderry, Belfast and Ardrossan.
A fleet of fishing smacks built up the town’s reputation for hake catches. Until then it hadn’t been a popular fish, but it cemented Fleetwoods place as one of the top three fishing ports in the country.
Harriet is one of Fleetwoods fishing smacks – you can take a tour of her at Fleetwood Museum, where she rests in the boat hall at the back of the main building.
After the Dock opened in 1877 at a cost of £250,000, Fleetwood became the third largest fishing port in the country. The fearless reputation of its lifeboat men made news in many a fierce storm. There are various memorials to lost fishermen in Fleetwood, like ‘Welcome Home’ (below) which you can see on The Esplanade at Ferry Beach.
Fleetwood Docks
Fleetwood was a hostage of the 1960’s and 70’s Cod Wars, over fishing rights between Iceland and the UK. As a result, commercial fishing has seriously declined. The last deep sea trawler left the town in 1982 and now only inshore fishing boats fish out of the port. Trawlers registered in other places can still be seen taking advantage of the popular fish market.
In 1973, the area around the old railway station was developed into a container port facility. P&O operated a container service to Larne in Northern Ireland which became a Roll-on/roll-off service in 1975. Twice-daily container service continued until 2004 when Stena Line bought the route and increased the service to three times a day. Stena Line withdrew the service at the end of 2010, with the loss of 140 jobs.
In 1995, the deserted Wyre Dock was developed into a marina (above). The then derelict dock landing area was developed into the retail shopping centre originally called Freeport Fleetwood. In 2018 it was renamed Affinity Lancashire.
Trams to Fleetwood
The electric tram link to Blackpool was constructed in the 1890s and of course remains to this day. In 2012 major works were completed to the line and it reopened with much celebration as a light railway with new trams.
The tramway was routed along East Street and West Street (now Lord Street and North Albert Street) rather than Dock Street. Commercial trade followed and the town centre grew. Fleetwood is the only town centre in Britain with trams running the full length of its main street, sharing road-space with cars.
Fleetwood Pier
Plans for a pier were first made in the 1890s. Building didn’t start until 1909 and Fleetwood Pier opened in 1910. At 150m long it was one of the shortest piers in the country and the last new seaside pier to be built in the UK.
After withstanding a fire in 1952, it finally met its fate in 2008. A fire on 9 September led to its demolition later in the same month, sealing its place in the history of Fleetwood.
The worst flood occurred in 1927 when six people died. First built in 1962, the sea defences at Rossall are enhanced because of the flood of 1977. Completed in 2018, the Rossall Coastal Defence Scheme is the latest stretch of sea wall to be built.
In 1933 Fleetwood became a Borough. With attractions and amenities increasing, it was a popular place for a healthy family holiday – and it still is today!
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I came to Fleetwood every year on summer holidays in the 60s and 70s and sometimes off season as well. We stayed initially at the Marillea Hotel on the Esplanade and latterly at the Savoy nearer the pier. I loved the kiosks with their buckets spades and whirling windmills that made playing in the sand such fun. Mums bridesmaid would also come down with her family and i remember uncle Gordon and his son Phillip would sail their boats on the boating pond further up the Esplanade, where a lot of boating was to be had in a larger boats which were run on a petrol engine if i remember correctly. I can still smell the hedgerows on the esplanade next to the silver hanging railings -and being walked around the memorial gardens. We always played pitch and put with my grandparents when they came on holiday as well – and my Papa loved the bowling they had there infront of the memorial gardens . I liked the trampolines and the helter skelter nearby – but didnt like the feel of the mats you had to sit on to come down they were jaggy Mum used to enter me into beauty pageants – i hated those. But loved the outdoor swimming pool with its water chutes – and hot Vimto to warm to up. In the 60s i remember the tunes blasting out from the pier loud speaker system of the Beatles hits as i went on a children’s ride outside. Then across the road to a lovely place for toasted tea cakes and a cuppa. Mum loved the Lantern coffee house in town and every day we went along for morning coffee. The Bingo – or as i called it colour bingo to differentiate it from the cash Bingo – was an every day occurrence on holidays – we saved all out winning vouchers and came home with the car heaving under the weight of bed spreads and kitchen ware. They had great prizes in the 60s. And that brings me to my favourite ever Market – which sadly has gone to seed. In the 60s Fleetwood market was teaming with life and character. The traders all had their patter. I loved the man who sold boxes of sweets – the sweet aroma from the stall and his fast engaging patter , i was transfixed. Next to him was the lady who sold material – and would shout out ” 1 yard 2 yards back yards, grave yards” and so on. There was a man on the pier next to the small lighthouse who was a professor – and he latterly blessed little pewter Buddha – he had a large ornamental Buddha on his podium and he incanted what sounded like ” ishmoolakishkeybok” and you bought it for luck. i returned with my Dad for his last holiday in Lancashire 2012 -so much change. It felt very sad – and such a shame to have turned into a shadow of its former glory – but i have wonderful memories of it in its heyday
What a lovely memory
I was brought up first on Read Ave then Radcliff Road as a child. We moved to Blackpool when I was 16 in 1985. I missed the place and used to cycle from Blackpool to Fleetwood for months after the move. Especially to go birdwatching on the copse-where the old PowerStation and rail tracks were. Still, I visit Fleetwood on occasion.
I’ve recently been told my great grandfather was the dock policeman in Fleetwood would probably have been in the 1930s possibly earlier. Wagstaff was his surname, anyone remember him?
My mother (Joan Northcote) was born in 1932 in Fleetwood and lived with her parents in Victoria St. I spent many happy days visting my grandmother in the 1960s. Fleetwood was still a vibrant place then, with a fishing industry and a rail link bringing in holidaymakers for the attractions along the seafront. My mum went to Fleetwood Grammar School, along with my sister and I note it is 100 years since it was built. Fond memories.
Why don’t you pin your recollection to the map on Mapping Memories Pete? Find it at this link: https://www.visitfleetwood.info/about/memory-map-project/
In fleetwood this week staying at the noth euston hotel with my dear wife,she came here years ago,and stayed at knot end.sheseems to remember a man in a cloak in fleetwood who used to hold a black head its been on her mind for years,any info.thanks keith.
K
That’s a new one on me! Could you add it to the new Memory Map? Fleetwood Museum is collecting all kinds of information from people about the town. Find it here: https://www.visitfleetwood.info/about/memory-map-project/memory-map/
This used to be a type of fortune teller guy who had his stall on the promenade near the Euston, he always had a crowd of people around him listening to his banter. He seemed old to me at the time and I think he retired in the 70s or 80s
My fathers family loved in Little Layton,B/pool,they had 4 cottages in a row plus a small stable.It was all demolished in 1960 when a new road was made.They got only £100 compensation for each house,but were each given a new council owned house,in Rudyard Place. My grandfather had a disability which meant he could not serve in the Great War.he was most upset when someone gave him a white feather, a symbol of cowardice. He later became” property manager” at the Grand Theatre,which meant he moved all the scenery about… ! I like to visit every 2 years,and walk the beach from Blackpool to Fleetwood, which has the best sunsets you can hope to see,across the bay to the Lakes and beyond…….Despite being rather down at heel in parts,Fleetwood still has grandeur and peace .Shame that the pier was lost,and that the swimming pool and YMCA do not fit in at all…..what would Sir Peter about these?
I grew up on the other side of the Wyre, first in Pilling, then Preesall, then Knottend on Sea. We only went to Fleetwood when I had to go to the dentist and of course it meant taking the Ferry boat with my Mum. I remember being bewildered at how long and alike the streets were, and especially stumbling back along them in great pain and my head reeling after numerous extractions, under gas anaesthetic and the terrifying nightmares that caused, the details of which I can still recall. Then the cold wind whipping around us mercilessly on the Ferry boat on the return journey. Living in the Fylde in those harsh winters was not for the faint hearted! My father worked on the docks for a while from about 1955 when I was born, to 1958. Apparently he brought hake home for tea and as a baby I loved it. The Isle of Man boat, its comings and goings, had a great significance for us in everyday conversation. I was talking about Fleetwood with older friends last night and shocked that they had never heard of the place, even though it has been such a major British port. But I’m afraid many people in Cornwall do seem to feel comfortable ignoring the rest of the UK and its history! Thanks for the history, really interesting.
That’s fascinating Judith, I assume you now live in Cornwall? I’m a bit younger than you but I too have done the gas extraction nightmare thing. I bet towns seemed very strange when you’d grown up somewhere so quiet.
It was Smiths, and has kids we could watch the rows of people frying the crisps as the bib doors were left open. I worked on Blackpool buses for a while and a bus load of workers from smiths was just like being inside of a bag of crisps, smelly lol
Smiths Crisps
Hope this helps.
Does anybody know where the India Rubber Factory was located in Fleetwood.
Can someone please tell me what was the name of the potato crisps that were made in Fleetwood in the 1950’s and 1960’s.
not 100% but i seem to think it was SMITHS
It was Smith’s I believe
My mother spent summer holidays in Fleetwood with her grand parents. From the stories she used to tell they would stay for three or four weeks. This would be circa 1910 so Edwardian days, she talked about her grand father hiring a pony and trap to drive along the promenade. As a consequence after WW2 when I was about 4 years old we started to go on holiday to Fleetwood. It was brilliant, pitch and putt ,the yachting lake,the Marine Hall .
I still go each year and stay at the North Euston for a couple of nights.
Fantastic memories.
Hi Frank
I was born in fleetwood in 1971 i grew up on Hatfield ave, our next door neighbour was Ross Fielding and his wife Grace they had no children. He was a tank commander in ww2. I think he passed away in the 80s and wife lived on a few more years. Any relevance?
sad to see this town go like a ghost town now i have lived here nearly all my life and seen what it used to be like and how its just gone a ghost town there is nothing here now just betting shops estate agents hair dressers nothing that will draw the folks in like it used to do there are so many shops closed up and gone and its getting worse as the months go by sad really sad to see it used to be a thriving fishing port but sadly that ended and so may others followed after that sad to see a nice town be full of druggys its getting worse sad real sad as it was a lovely little town now its a place that has no decent shops or places to go for kids or adults pretty soon it will be a ghost town its nearly there now sad to see it happen in front of my eyes and nothing happening to stop it shame to see it just left to rot away
great really enjoyed reading about old Fleetwood , when we were kids we used to holiday there in the 1960s for year after year, we used to stay at mrs jays boarding house at a road opposite the pier, anyone remember mr and mrs jay ? I think all those lovely old Victorian houses are now bed-sits, shame but that the way it goes.
Cheers..
Johnny.
Thank you for another fascinating read into the history of Fleetwood.
It’s a pleasure!
Great reading. Fleetwood is where I was born. My father was a policeman and we lived in Pharos St. Although having lived in Australia for well over 50 years I still find the history of my birthplace fascinating. I still have one cousin living locally that I haven’t seen for decades.
Regards Graham Fenton (Mum was Grunshaw)
Some great information and history. Also love the unusual names at the beginning.
Hello all,
I’m trying to dig up some family history and wanted to see if anybody from this area may be able to give me some new insight. My Grandfather is Francis “Frank” Nicholas Dominic Fielding born 1921 in Fleetwood to Rose Hesketh “Maiden name” and Francis “Frank” Fielding, my grandpa also had an older sister named rose, so far from his war records I know he grew up at 1 Addison Rd. I also know from history he passed down to my father and I that he was the first to serve in the royal army coming from a long line of men who served in the Royal Navy. After my grandfather finished ww11 he married a woman by the name of Renee Hessee and had a daughter named Anita Renee fielding. Later in life he divorced, remarried, relocated from Nairobi Africa to the USA , Anita passed tragically in an accident in London. And he went on to have my father in 1971 also Frank Fielding, who in turn had me in 1993 yes also Frank Fielding and recently my wife gave birth to my son “yes also Frank Fielding” 🙂 if anybody from the area knows if I have any living relatives or has any additional information, please contact me.
Kindest Regards
Frank Fielding
francisfielding93@gmail.com
Have you tried the Fleetwood Past and Present facebook site?
It’s been lovely reading a compelling history of a small town that, until today, I didn’t know existed! I came across this website in search of historical information for my book that I am writhing, called Yourney. It has been a delight to fil my head with facts and pictures that will do lovely in my new book. Thank you for taking the time to gather and wright such information, and I hope that others will enjoy it as much as I have!
This article brought back happy memories of my childhood visits to Fleetwood in the 1940s and early 1950s. I stayed with my grandma, Amelia White, who lived in a rented bungalow in Grasmere Avenue in what was said to have been the 19th century home of the commanding officer of Beach Barracks. My father, Norman, recalled rowing from house to house during the 1927 flood and helped to build the Marine Hall in the 1930s. One of his sisters, Gela Shaw, was the town midwife for many years. I look forward very much to my next annual visit to the Fylde and Fleetwood.
Graham White, Nottingham